A WORD OF ADVICE

i know Hanoi and Hoian really well, but not elsewhere.

i use aeroplanes to get around to save time, they are like buses, about 4 a day between cities (generally about 75 usd, about 1 hour). If you go by train make sure you go first class and insist on soft beds, trust me on this.

By the way, if you get a bicycle, test the brakes first. I nearly met my maker in a ditch at the bottom of a hill outside Hue when the bike failed to slow down.

There are cashpoints these days (in the old days you had to go to the jewellery shops where they exchanged gold) - don't be put off by the sign saying $150 limit, all you do is put your card in again and again and it just carries on giving you cash, but it is in Vietnam Dong so you need big pockets and be careful when walking away.

Don't be scared by the taxi-mopeds (xe om) they're generally fine, especially if you choose an older driver. Always agree a fee before setting off and keep a hotel card with you for the return journey, and if possible have a map so they can see the location.

I am hearing tales of more hassle on the beaches and theft of bags/money off mopeds in HCMC, so do just keep your wits about you and keep money and phones in your pockets not in bags.

HANOI HOTELS

My selection is generally fairly upmarket, around 3 stars. All the hotels will change/buy air tickets for you for no charge, or tiny charge, and ring ahead to book hotels for you too. Day trips and minibuses to other cities can be arranged by any of the hotels but it's worth checking out sinh cafes or tourist cafes for more options.

All the hotels listed below are near Hoan Kiem Lake in the Old Quarter, which is the best place to be for easy access to shops, restaurants, and top-quality meandering.

Lucky Hotel, 12 Hang Trong

www.luckyhotel.com.vn

I've stayed here many times and been very happy, this is my home in Hanoi. Right by "Silk Street" Hang Gai, and the lake with its calm cafés (lovely and calm being by the water during the day, if you don't like rats don't hang out there in the evening). There is also Lucky 2 at 46 Hang Hom and Lucky 3 in Hang Bong, both nearby and excellent locations. All hotels have rooms with balconies which is rare for Hanoi, and the staff are very friendly and helpful.

Green Mango Hotel and Restaurant

18 Hang Quat

www.greenmango.vn

One of the first genuine boutique hotels I've seen in Hanoi. Only 7 rooms, all very stylish, and a rather glamorous restaurant on the ground floor. WHen i was last there they provided a free bottle of wine with your room! Not sure if that still applies but it definitely appeals. Get your reservation in early.

Church Hotel, 9 Nha Tho

www.churchhotel.com.vn

A chic hotel in one of the smartest streets in Hanoi, with beautiful shops and the lake nearby. Very near the cathedral so be ready for early morning bells.

Golden Lotus Hotel 1, 32 Hang Trong

www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn

I visited this hotel just after it opened, and I was really impressed with the size and quality of décor in the rooms. There is now another branch just a few doors down which is good because it is quite a small hotel and usually booked out well in advance.

Hanoi Elegance 3 Hotel, 106 Hang Bong

www.hanoielegancehotel.com

Part of a very new chain of 4 hotels in the Old Quarter with good quality rooms and a reputation for exceptional service. In my opinion this one has the best location for the lake and shopping, but check them all out on tripadvisor.com to choose which one suits you.

Tung Trang Hotel

13 Tam Thuong Alley, off Hang Bong, or approach from Yen Thai alley off Hang Manh

tungtranghotel@yahoo.com

A simple but nice hotel with friendly staff, prices from 15 to 30usd. Choose one of the double rooms at the front, 201 to 501. The advantage is that it's in a very quiet alley, good location, and overlooks a pagoda which is a rare treat. All facilities available except for hairdryer which you have to borrow from reception, it's just not as fancy as other hotels and thus half the price. I really like this hotel, but if you can't get in there are plenty of other guesthouses in this alley.

OUT AND ABOUT IN HANOI

If you want a massage or beauty treatment, QT Salon is good, down by the lake in Le Thai To. You will need to book: 928 6116.

Get your nails painted (yes! By hand ‼ not stencilled or sprayed!) Takes at least an hour for toes and hands, about 15usd at D&P Nail Art 35 Hang Non in the old quarter 2 mins from Hang Gai. No appointment, you just turn up and wait. Don't go after 5pm it's too full, but there are 3 other nail parlours over the road.

Want a swim or sunbathe? Go to the Army Hotel (state-run, what a surprise) 33C Pham Ngu Lao ‼ you can pay a few usd to use the large outdoor pool facilities without staying there (and I wouldn't recommend that).

PHARMACY

There is a really good pharmacist just on the corner of Trang Thi and Ba Trieu, should you need some medication. Write down what you need on some paper first. Shut between 12 and 2.

RESTAURANTS IN HANOI

All restaurants all within 5-10 mins of hotels above by bike* or a longer gentle walk (*ask your hotel staff what the appropriate fare is). Please let me know if somewhere has shut or changed address.

HIGHWAY 4 (Xa Lo 4) ‼ 3-5 Hang Tre

This relaxed place has great vietnamese food, and an amazing array of liqueurs behind the bar, including the infamous "bumblebee" and "dead crow" flavours ‼ try a sample basket of mini-shots but be prepared to get drunk very quickly!

TAMARIND CAFE - 80 Ma May

Good veggie food, informal. They also organise really good trips to Halong Bay and elsewhere.

GREEN TANGERINE - 48 Hang Be

Another nice fairly smart restaurant.

CAFÉ DES ARTS ‼ 11B Ngo Bao Khanh (CD street)

Classic French cuisine (but not too fancy) on first floor if you fancy a good steak. Good people-watching if you sit on the balcony.

SALSA - 25 Nha Tho Street

Elegant tapas and traditional french dishes provided by the French owners, and they have good wine.

PUKU Cafe - first floor at 60 Hang Trong

Enter through a passage and up stairs inside the building. Shabby but fun younger ex-pat hangout with huge sofa, balcony, good salads and pasta, great coffee and good music ‼ great for relaxing for an hour especially if you are fed up with noodles. Also has art/photo gallery on top floor.

GECKO CAFE - top floor at 56 Hang Trong

Very pleasant cafe with comfy armchairs, good music and a mixed menu. High up, so very peaceful and airy and a good place to chill out. Food is only average so i'd eat elsewhere.

HANOI GARDEN - 36 Hang Manh

Pleasant restaurant with internal courtyard if it's hot, and good set menus of Vietnamese dishes, very popular with the locals as well as visitors.

SAIGON SAKURA ‼ 17 Trang Thi

Delicious Japanese food served in a traditional calm environment, and very reasonable. The sign is in Japanese and easy to miss, look for the bamboo mat hanging above the mopeds.

CHA CA LA VUONG - 14 Cha Ca

Famous old traditional fish stew restaurant, tourist hotspot, but still fun to try.

QUAN AN NGON ‼ 18 Phan Boi Chau

A very popular restaurant that takes the "street" out of street food, and the perfect way of discovering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. Experienced street-cooks have been selected to create their specialist dishes in traditional food-stalls but within a more salubrious villa environment. It's really fun, and delicious.

COM CHAY NANG TAM ‼ 79A Tran Hung Dao

A cheap and fun vegetarian restaurant that specializes in the Buddhist tradition of making its veggie dishes look like meat. It's down an alleyway, look for yellow sign. This one is further away from the Old Quarter.

HUONG BIEN QUAN ‼ second floor, 30 Tong Duy Tan

At the end of Dien Bien Phu

Fantastic Vietnamese seafood restaurant, hidden away from most tourists. Check what you're ordering by pointing. Expect formica and plastic stools.

QUANG AN RESTAURANT 22 ‼ 22 Hang Can

One block down from the Cha Ca restaurant, this really is a family restaurant serving Vietnamese dishes, go through into building and upstairs to find the dining room. Wonderful experience, but not the place for anyone who squeals at frogs legs.

STREET CANTEEN ‼ BUN CHA DAC KIM, 1 Hang Manh

The other end away from Hang Gai, this style of street canteen is one step up from actual street food, and offers traditional Vietnamese lunch for the working Vietnamese. It is delicious, fine to eat and dirt cheap. Meatballs and herbs and noodles. Most of these places specialize in one dish only and cost the equivalent of 1 usd.

STREET CANTEEN ‼ Bun Bo Nam Bo, 67 Hang Dieu

Noodles with beef and peanuts, opposite Hang Da Market.

STREET CANTEEN - Mien Luon, 87 Hang Dieu

Noodles and crispy tiny eels. It's delicious, honestly.

STREET CANTEEN ‼ Quay Thuc Pham Cong Nghe, 71 Hang Bo

Expert place to try a staple part of Hanoi diet, the steamed stuffed rice roll.

HOIAN

One of my absolute favourite places in Vietnam, and a great place to spend a few days ‼ lots of history, fabulous old architecture, beach, food, river, friendly chilled atmosphere. Obviously very touristy now but it really doesn't matter. Be prepared to stay longer here than you intended (lots of people do).

HOTELS

HOIAN HOTEL

Perfectly pleasant but impersonal, state run, often jammed with coachloads of tourists. But the advantage is that it has a large quiet pool and garden, and even if you're not staying there, you can walk in and ask at reception to lie by the pool for a few usd. It is deserted most of the day because everyone is looking at the sights.

VINH HUNG 1 (ONE) HOTEL - 143 Tran Phu Street

www,vinhhungresort.com

This is where I always stay in Hoian. You have to transfer onto a moped to reach this hotel as cars aren't allowed into the centre of town. Great location, old place, teak and dusty antiques everywhere. I think they've recently shrunk the number of rooms by making them larger, which means booking will be a nightmare so please don't stay there when I'm trying to book a room! There are 2 more modern hotels in this group nearby which are fine, but they don't have the same charm, this is "the old one".

MINH A, ANCIENT LODGING HOUSE - 2 Nguyen Thai Hoc

For a really authentic experience you can go to a charming little guesthouse right by the market, I think just 2 rooms in a family home. Cheap but noisy, doubtful if they have email. tel 0510 861368

HA AN HOTEL ‼ 6-8 Phan Boi Chau

www.haanhotel.com

Rather more expensive and luxey than I would normally choose (that's Hoian for you), but it is a good-looking hotel, with a beautiful garden, and a reputation for excellent service.

THANH XUAN HOTEL ¬‼ 26 Ba Trieu

www.longlifehotels.com

A good 10-min walk from town centre, but it does have a small but charming garden and pool and very decent rooms, and is very affordable (last time less than 40 usd). Get a garden view room if you can, that street can be noisy.

THIEN THANH HOTEL‼ 34 Ba Trieu

www.blueskyhoian.com

Ditto above, but this one is a bit smaller and more characterful. Again, a walk into town centre, but very reasonable prices for the facilities and it's so great to wake up and look out on fields of morning glory instead of honking mopeds.

THE NAM HAI HOTEL ‼ Dien Duong Village

www.thenamhai.com

Well this really is the lap of luxury, at over 900usd a night, and a reputation for being one of the best hotels in Vietnam. I'm only putting it in for the Top Gear fans who watched the Vietnamese road trip in December 08 and might have wondered where that amazing pool was where Jeremy Clarkson sat while the others mucked about on the beach. This is the one. Start saving now.

RESTAURANTS IN HOIAN

Several new ones since The Quiet American was filmed here but otherwise i find the place virtually unchanged after many years. This is one town where you can just wander about through the lantern-filled streets and you'll always find somewhere great to eat. The people here are total foodies.

CAFE DES AMIS, 52 Bach Dang

you don't get a choice, just put yourself in the hands of Mr Kim and enjoy an amazing meal of many courses (seafood and veg only). An excellent starting point for your visit.

HAI SCOUT CAFÉ ‼ 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc (back entrance on Tran Phu)

Mix of Vietnamese and Western dishes and BBQ dinners. Also one of the many places offering daily cooking courses now.

RESTAURANT CAFÉ 96, 96 Bach Dang

Pleasant restaurant serving the local specialities such as White Rose (Hoian's version of ravioli) on the riverfront. Cooking courses also available here from Mum in the kitchen.

RIVER LOUNGE ‼ 35 Phuyen Phuc Chu

A refreshing change in Hoian, a new designer restaurant and chillout lounge, obviously more western than the others. Head upstairs for the daybeds, wine and view. If I'm in town, that's where you'll find me.

THE CARGO CLUB AND PATISSERIE ‼ 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc

Another good place to chill out in more western style. Also ideal for early evening drink upstairs before going out to dinner. And I hate to go on about this, but there is another cooking school here as well.

CITRONELLA CAFÉ ‼ 5 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai

Charming restaurant by river with good food, slightly smarter than the older ones, and great cocktails. Cooking classes too.

GREEN MOSS ‼ 155 Nguyen Duy Hieu

Another pretty restaurant in an old house, with some Thai dishes as well as Vietnamese. Get there early to get a place on the balcony.

BROTHERS CAFÉ ‼ 27-29 Phan Boi Chau

www.brothercafehoian.com.vn

Actually I would suggest you save money by [i]not[/i] eating here, but instead come for a rather glamorous drink early one evening (or lunchtime) in the beautiful riverside garden, and then go somewhere else. I think it's overpriced for what you get, especially when there's so much choice in Hoian, and it's also a package tour destination.

STREET CANTEEN ‼ Wan Lu, 27 Tran Phu

Serving local dishes, especially Cao Lau, Hoian's special noodle dish. Bit scruffy but charming and cheap.

STREET CANTEEN ‼ Bale Well, 45-51 Tran Hung Dao

Down the alleyway on corner with Le Loi, excellent simple local dishes, very popular.

Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC or Saigon)

Dong Khoi is the smart shopping street.

if you are at all interested in frocks, then I really recommend a quick look in Minh Khoa's shop at 48 Nguyen Hue, near the camera shops. He is the most famous Vietnamese designer, great stuff. This is a glimpse of the sophisticated retail side of Vietnam that you don't see if you spend all day seeing the sights!

HOTELS IN HCMC

GUESTHOUSE LUAN VU ‼ 35/2 Bui Vien

http://www.geocities.com/guesthouseluanvu

email phanlan@hcm.vnn.vn

tel 84 8 8377185

This is where I stay in HCMC. It's about 20usd a night, simple rooms but perfectly light and quiet, so it's fine if you're out all day. It's a convenient location in the tourist district (if you want to do trips) and down an alleyway off the main street (a huge plus in HCMC), Manager Mr Vu Cam Thi and the staff are just lovely and so helpful.

SAIGON MINI-HOTEL ‼ 102/1A Cong Quynh, District 1

www.saigonminihotel.com

A pleasant clean hotel slap bang in the middle of tourist district but again down an alleyway so a bit quieter. Definitely a step up from the average guesthouse at about 30usd, but worth it if you want nicer sheets etc.

ELIOS HOTEL ‼ 233 Pham Ngu Lao, District 1

www.elioshotel.com.vn

I think this hotel is quite new so I haven't been, but a friend told me she thought it was good. It's a large midrange one, in the tourist area but smarter than most others, with a rooftop restaurant. The good news is that it's 50-80usd, which is great value.

GRAND HOTEL ‼ 8 Dong Khoi, District 1

www.grandhotel.vn

Now this is a rather splendid old-fashioned hotel in a suitably grand 1920s building (one of the oldest hotels in Vietnam) which is internally renovated and very comfortable. Good open-air pool, and in a very central location near the smarter shopping streets. Around 140usd.

METROPOLE HOTEL ‼ 148 Tran Hung Dao, District 1

http://www.libertyhotels.com.vn

A bit of a landmark hotel in HCMC and in a great location. Everything should be quite classy and comfortable here, and again it has the rooftop (small) pool. About 120usd.

RESTAURANTS IN HCMC

Hoa Tuc ‼ 74 Hai Ba Trung, go inside the building

An elegant new restaurant featuring carefully prepared dishes from all over Vietnam, and serving speciality teas in its garden courtyard all day. Not expensive, just done with taste and care by well-known restaurateur Noelle Carr-Ellison.

Le Toit Gourmand ‼ 31/4 Hoang Viet, Tan Binh, D4

It's not exactly central, but I've included this especially for all of you out there who love French food, so you can have an evening of (slightly retro) gastronomic delight with your host chef Gils. No menu, but you will get 7 courses for about 40usd. It's a great treat, but a serious way out towards the airport.

X ‼ Level 1, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1

You know when the restaurant is decorated in beige and cream that this is for grown-ups, and quite fussy ones who don't want to be upset by bright colours. This restaurant serves beautiful fusion Vietnamese food, and I am including it here specifically for the degustation menu which has 5 courses with 5 glasses of wine for about 40usd. Brilliant value.

Club Camargue ‼ 16 Cao Ba Quat, D1

Ok this is my last posh restaurant but I just have to put it in, as this restaurant's reputation extends throughout Vietnam. The French-European food is exquisite, and although it might be the most expensive on this page, you'd pay loads more to eat it anywhere else in the world in such a romantic courtyard garden. Also great for a special early/late evening drink at the bar. Check it out.

La Fenetre Soleil ‼ 125 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, 2F, look for the blue sign on corner

Plush but friendly café on first floor,with chandeliers and soft sofas, a great hangout place. A word of warning, I heard the owner has swing dance evenings every Wednesday night so be prepared to shimmy those hips if you're there.

X Café ‼ 53X Pasteur, D1

Very cool spacious modernist café, lots of white and glass, and featuring all‼day breakfasts and a mix of western and Vietnamese food, with cocktails and videos in the evenings.

Also check out:

Café Opera, 31 Ngo Duc Ke
Mojo café 88 Dong Khoi D1
Nomad Café, 50 Mac Dinh Chi, D1